“Tous au Parfum!”, the 1st Meeting of International Industry Experts of the International Perfumery Foundation in Paris
Conferences highlight industry challenges and a major issue for the European fragrance industry
— Creezy Courtoy, Founder and President of IPF
PARIS, ILE DE FRANCE, FRANCE, July 10, 2022 /EINPresswire.com/ — TOUS AU PERFUME! For its first edition, the International Perfume Foundation’s Perfume Festival in Paris was a great success!
Experts came from China, Australia, India, Indonesia, USA, Canada, Saudi Arabia, Dubai, Algeria, France, UK, Germany , Italy and Spain.
Tributes were paid to Jean Kerleo, Master Perfumer of Patou and founder of the Osmothèque and to Pierre Dinand, Master Designer of perfume bottles.
Jean-Marie Martin-Hattemberg, Perfume and Cosmetics Bottles expert and evaluator, introduced us to the most beautiful packaging from the 1920s, followed by a round table on the future of packaging and the need to create beautiful collectible packaging before industry cannot sustainably recycle packaging. “To be recycled, all parts (plastic, glass, metal) must be separated, and this is not currently the case, but waiting for packaging to change brands could create beautiful collectible packaging,” said Creezy Courtoy, Founder and President of the IPF.
Regarding the supply chain: “It will take us 30 years to relocate”, declared Ivan Borrego Valverde, general manager of Beauty Cluster, the largest Spanish cluster in cosmetics and perfumes, Véronique Coty, president of the association Francois Coty explained that she was struggling to find the last craftsmen to create her bottle of “Poturno” perfume. It was very educational as she filmed all the processes and even learned how to create frosted glass corks with this ancient method involving no plastic materials.
His conclusion is that more work is urgently needed to preserve these artisans, and help them pass on their legacies to future generations before they disappear completely.
Chen Li Morisset, chairman of Rose Road Group and founder of CABIO, the China Organic Beauty Association, confirmed the fact that the Chinese are looking for natural fragrance brands. “An IPF China office in Beijing could help natural fragrance brands enter the Chinese market, we have already signed agreements with the IPF Teacher’s Academy to teach their curriculum in China,” she said.
Terry Johnson, Vice President of IPF and Chairman of the International SEOS (Sustainable Essential Oils Standards) Committee explained the growing demand for natural fragrances in the United States and 2 years of work by the committee creating the SEOS standards to certify all of the essential oil supply chain.
Concerning the synthetic-natural cohabitation, Françoise Rapp explained the difference between working with naturals and working with synthetics: “Most of the synthetic perfumers who come to my Natural Perfumery class have never touched naturals and have never no idea, they think it’s impossible to work with naturals. whereas all the perfumers of the past only used natural,” she said.
After an exchange of views, all parties decided to work hand in hand towards a positive future for the industry: the major issue concerning all perfumers: perfume must be removed from the cosmetics directive because every year it There are restrictions in the use of natural products, these modifications in perfume formulas change the smell of perfumes: consumers no longer recognize their perfumes and brands are spending fortunes to recompose and change all their packaging and labeling.
As perfume is not a cosmetic, we smell perfume, we are not obliged to put perfume on the skin and perfumers should be free to use lavender, rose… “The lobby at the European Commission in favor of the big lab puts all farmers at risk,” said Pascal Morabito. Rachel Binder explained that American perfumers have much more freedom than European perfumers and that the natural market is growing rapidly. “We need more than this day for this discussion. We must involve all players in this sector in protecting the heritage of perfumery and the freedom to use natural products in Europe. said Creezy Courtoy, Founder and President of IPF.
Regarding the future of Selective Distribution, after a visit to the Metavers, everyone explained how they distributed their perfumes. “We manage our distribution ourselves,” says Gilles Thevenin, owner of Maison Lubin. This is what more and more niche brands are doing and it is a problem for distributors who are losing part of the market.
After a networking lunch, Pierre Dinand signed his book and amazed everyone by telling the story of Opium. Answering questions from the public, we could have listened to him indefinitely. He was with Jules, his grandson who works with him and who admires his grandfather “I will never stop honoring him and I hope to one day become as good as him”, he said. declared.
Shaneela Rowah Al-Qamar, an expert in oriental fragrances and traditions, spoke about the importance of preserving the oud for GCC countries and what has been done by the Zayed Foundation.
Magali Quenet, an expert in raw material sourcing, shared a passion for the fumigation of oud.
“Education is the most important tool, and so we need to educate growers and harvesters, which is part of our curriculum at the Teachers’ Academy,” Creezy Courtoy said. Patrick Worms, President EURAF the European Federation of Agroforestry confirmed the importance of protecting farmers to preserve heritage while educating them and teaching them good practices.
Hamdane Allalou, President PPAM Essential Oils Algeria and more recently President IPF Algeria told us about the importance of perfume and medicinal plants in the Algerian heritage and about IPF’s project to help in the development of the region to replant, educate and certify the raw material supply chain.
Andrej Babicky, Certified Natural Perfumer and expert in the extraction of raw materials, explained various ancient methods such as enfleurage and maceration, his course at the IPF Teacher’s Academy. This has been very well documented and subsequently Rachel Binder, Certified Natural Perfumer and Sommelier, told us the secret of implementing perfumes with these methods. “There is an important link to be made between the fruits that we eat and the maceration that can be made of them to then use them in perfumes, my experience as a sommelier has led me to understand this. What we can do in the United States as a perfumer is completely impossible in Europe due to the EU cosmetics directive, which is why there are so many certified natural perfumers in the United States and if little in France,” she said.