Future Skincare Trends and Ingredients

Like all industries, skincare is prone to trends and fads, star ingredients, and downright duds. What does the future hold for us? We learn this from doctors Lisa Chan and Maryam Zamani.

Let’s talk about skincare, the very practice of taking care of your skin, usually on your face, neck, and chest (ah, décolleté). The concept includes everything from clinical treatments to home products and even nutrition.

You are no doubt familiar with the balms and lotions, acids and tools that all promise to support the integrity of your skin, improve its appearance and provide relief from painful flare-ups of rosacea, cystic acne, dryness, fine lines and other problems.

But the plethora of products and formulas on the market can be an overwhelming and difficult sphere to navigate – so we take a closer look at today’s skincare trends and what might be in store in the future. .

[Editor’s note: Dr Lisa Chan is participating in this interview feature solely for informational purposes and does not endorse or promote any of the products contained herein.]

When you think of the skincare products that have become mainstream over the past decade, you might think of Korean serums, moisturizers, and sheet masks, like the one pictured above.

It wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say that skincare has gone mainstream, with a less ‘cosmetic’ angle given to the practice. After all, it’s a science. Today’s products include various options for all genders, ages, skin types and conditions, and there is simply more awareness and education about the treatments and ingredients one can use.

“Much of it is due to the rise of social media,” says Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and physician specializing in facial aesthetics. She identifies videos and photos of before and after transformations, skincare journeys and reviews. For the past two years, we’ve lived online, a result of working from home, remote learning, general social distancing, and outright isolation.

We’ve even seen technology – “beauty gadgets” – make their way into the market. Previously confined to professional spas and clinics, various devices using radio frequency, red/blue light and pulsed light are now portable, user friendly and ready to purchase for the home.

Beauty gadgets and devices
LED face masks have become more readily available for home use.

“But you have to be careful,” warns Dr. Lisa Chan. The GP insists on not immediately buying the latest fashion because not all of these gadgets are properly reviewed or evidence-based.

A common skin concern last year was clarity – keeping the face free of acne, rosacea flare-ups and perioral dermatitis, all conditions that daily mask-wearing potentially exacerbated. But a long-standing concern commonly cited by both Dr. Zamani and Dr. Chan is tired eyes – dark circles, puffy lower eyelids, dehydrated skin and even upper facial wrinkles. These days, the eyes are often all that can be seen in public.

“I’ve also noticed an increase in the number of patients asking for hair loss treatments,” says Dr. Chan. “Some of them have a condition called alopecia areata, which can be triggered by stress.”

Hyperpigmentation is a common cause for concern that can be targeted with products that lighten and inhibit melanin production with ingredients like alpha arbutin, glutathione, and tranexamic acid.

Actives and other ingredients

The rapid rise of high-strength exfoliators and retinoids on the market is both welcome (they’re very effective!) and a little worrying. Dr. Chan says that while they have their place in treatment, caution should be exercised when it comes to their use, especially for over-the-counter products.

“I’ve seen patients with extremely irritated skin, because they used too much, too quickly,” she says. Start with a lower application frequency, gradually increase concentrations and use as prescribed by your doctor. You don’t want to risk triggering a reaction that may take weeks or months to resolve.

When creating products for his luxury brand MZ Skin, Dr. Zamani focuses on filling them with powerful active ingredients that work synergistically. Strength or percentage matters, to some degree. Clever formulations produce faster, more effective results, with less skin irritation.

Dr Lisa Chan

Dr Lisa Chan

Dr Maryam Zamani

Dr Maryam Zamani

Vitamins A and C can be applied in the evening and in the morning respectively. As retinoids and antioxidants, they help stimulate cell turnover, speed healing, brighten skin tone, and protect against ultraviolet and free radical damage.

“I personally don’t advocate trying too many new things,” says Dr. Chan. “If you’ve already found what works for you, this is the best product for you, so stick with it.”

We’ve even seen pandemic-related skincare trends, such as sunscreens with blue light protection, for people who use screens continuously. And Dr. Chan says there has been a growing interest in natural and organic ingredients, which could complement or even replace exfoliants and high-strength retinoids. Consider betaine salicylate, a fatty acid derived from sugar beets that is often used as an alternative to beta hydroxy acid (BHA) in Korean skincare products.

“I think ingredient transparency has become a big trend,” adds Dr. Zamani. As consumers become more educated, brands strive to highlight their ingredients, benefits, and substantiate their product claims. “Education is powerful and essential, especially in skincare,” she says.

When using high-strength exfoliants and retinoids, exercise caution and caution – increase concentrations gradually and use as prescribed by your doctor.

Looking forward to

So, what skincare trends can we expect in the coming year? Perhaps a less is more approach, with shorter beauty routines and tailored skincare regimens.

“I can’t wait to see what new research will be done regarding cannabidiol [CBD]says Dr. Chan. “Some studies have shown it to have anti-inflammatory properties, which makes it interesting for potential use in patients with eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis and acne.”

She also thinks we could see more genderless products – in terms of marketing a product based entirely on the effectiveness of its ingredients, and not just targeted at a particular gender. “I believe there is no one-size-fits-all approach when it comes to skin, so it’s exciting to see what new products are on the way.”

Dr. Zamani predicts that the use of probiotics in skin care will continue to increase, as the skin microbiome has been the subject of much recent discussion. This results from increased skin problems, such as adult acne, which can be exacerbated by an imbalance of microorganisms on the surface of the skin.

She explains that bacteria in the skin microbiome protect and defend the skin against pathogens, but disruption from excessive cleansing leads to a compromised skin barrier. Probiotic skin care – the addition of live bacteria and yeast that are good for you – can speed up healing processes and strengthen the skin’s natural defense mechanism.

Dr Zamani encourages you to make your skin care routine a pleasant and relaxing experience.

“As the skin’s line of defense, the microbiome – similar to the gut flora – is definitely an interesting space to target for next-level skincare,” adds Dr. Chan. This brings us to an interesting point. If you think applying probiotics to the face is like ingesting them as antibiotics, what other holistic beauty trends might we see that borrow from the idea of ​​treating the whole body and not just the face?

“I actually have a very holistic view of beauty,” says Dr. Zamani. “The best routine is supported by a healthy, balanced lifestyle.” It also encourages making your skincare routine a pleasant and relaxing experience. “During the week, find 20 minutes for a mini treatment. Using home masks can help you slow down. I like to light a candle, stretch my limbs and use a nice mask at home to feel fresh – it will automatically help reduce stress. This is one of the main reasons why I created the [MZ Skin] Supercharged LED LightMAX 2.0. »

What about Dr. Chan? “To me, holistic skincare is just about staying healthy and keeping your mind and body in balance: nourishing the skin from the inside out, making sure you eat healthy, exercising in a healthy way. appropriately, manage stress and get enough sleep.”

Dr Lisa Chan is a general practitioner who focuses on aesthetic medicine. The founder of MZ Skin, Dr Maryam Zamani is an oculoplastic surgeon and facial aesthetic physician who treats a full range of skin concerns.

(Hero image courtesy of KoolShooters via Pexelsfeatured image and image 7 courtesy of Polina Tankilevich via Pexelsimage 1 courtesy of Anna Shvets courtesy of Pexelsimages 2 and 6 courtesy of MZ Skin, image 3 courtesy of Brilliant diamond via Pexels)
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