3 reasons to try fermented skincare products

Whether they’re lining your gut or found in your favorite supplements, if we’ve learned anything over the years, it’s that good bacteria are beneficial. It is also invaluable when it comes to skin care and can form the basis of beauty favorites in your routine.

If you eat kimchi or drink kombucha to support your gut health, you might know a little about the benefits of fermentation, but a more modern benefit of this metabolic process is that it adds a major boost to your care. skin. “Fermentation is the process by which sugars are broken down and transformed using bacteria, yeast or other organisms to create different types of ingredients such as acids, probiotics and alcohol,” explains Pittsburgh dermatologist Lindsey Zubritsky, MD. Although using fermentation to enhance ingredients isn’t necessarily a new concept – fermentation has been around since the Neolithic era – its use in skincare (it’s also used in haircare) is gaining momentum. storm the industry.

It allows products to penetrate deeper into the skin.

“When you look closely at skincare ingredients under a microscope, you’ll see that each has a size determined by its chemical makeup,” says Jeff Rosevear, head of skincare R&D at Unilever. “The fermentation process uses microorganisms to create much smaller molecules of ingredients, and this shrinkage allows them to penetrate the skin much easier and deeper, making the product more bioavailable.”

In the case of plant-based skincare brand Vintner’s Daughter, powerful superfoods like moringa, acerola and astragalus undergo the process of fermentation, which produces enzymes that increase nutrient absorption and support the skin on a deeper level. “In our nutrient-rich Active Treatment Essence, botanicals have been fermented to create acetic, lactic, and malic acids, which help hydrate, balance, and brighten skin from within,” says founder April Gargiulo. Peptides are another fermentation-worthy molecule: “Peptides can be too big to penetrate when applied topically, so they can’t reach the part of the skin that can use them and they end up s ‘sit on it,’ says Rosevear. “As the fermented ingredients have smaller sizes, they can be used by the skin to deeply penetrate the surface.

It increases the activity of skin cells.

Fermented ingredients are “food” for the skin’s good bacteria, so they can help restore it.

—Dr. Marta Pazos

According to cosmetic chemist Dr. Marta Pazos, “The by-products of fermentation will increase skin cell activity, which will result in more collagen production and therefore better elasticity and younger looking skin. An increase in skin activity also results in the proliferation of living cells, which leads to the elimination of dead cells which can asphyxiate the skin.

Dr. Zubritsky adds that this cellular increase also balances the skin’s microbiome and leads to a healthier, more intact barrier with less inflammation. “When the skin barrier is in a balanced state, other active skincare ingredients can work effectively in a friendlier environment.

It works on all skin types.

“When an ingredient is made by fermentation, only the target ingredient is produced, and therefore the end result is purer, allowing skincare products to deliver the desired benefits with little or no side effects” , says Rosevear. For this reason, Dr. Zubritsky says fermented skincare products generally work on “everyone and everyone, and that’s the beauty of it.” It can benefit any skin type, from oily to dry, as well as any skin age. Fermentation essentially stimulates skin care to make it more powerful and effective. Therefore, it is ideal for anyone looking to achieve anti-aging and radiance-enhancing results.

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boscia Probiotic Face + Scalp Exfoliating Powder ($38)

This hybrid face and scalp exfoliator includes non-living probiotics – they are made by fermentation of lactobacilli (otherwise known as lactic acid) – recycled charcoal powder for deep exfoliation and anti-oil salicylic acid for freshly parched skin on the face and scalp.

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VENN Probiotic-Tensive Hydro Firming Body Cream ($100)

Supercharged with prebiotics, probiotic ferments and postbiotics plus a blend of antioxidant-rich oils, this luxurious cream is clinically tested to increase skin firmness and deliver long-lasting hydration for touchably soft skin.

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OLEHENRIKSEN Barrier Booster Orange Ferment Essence ($44)

Fermented Orange Peel helps nourish and refresh skin while Niacinamide steps in to help maintain a clearer complexion. It’s not just lightweight; it’s also powerful enough to transform dull, dehydrated skin into brightened, hydrated skin in days.

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Ferver Ferver Hyaluronic Acid Serum ($19)

Dr. Zubritsky explains that the fermentation process breaks down the hyaluronic acid in this luminescent serum, making the molecule small enough to penetrate deeply, hydrating both the skin’s surface and its inner layers.

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OLOS Youth Restructuring Cream ($48)

Plumping and firming is the name of the game when it comes to this melting cream, which contains hyper-fermented aloe (known for its antioxidant and protective properties), retinol-mimicking rambutan and arugula extract, all of which help to fight pollution. , blue light, and as the brand claims, even jet lag.

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